As a city filled with diverse cultures and a rich history, St. Louis has become known for many things. Of course, the arch is considered our most treasured landmark, and the Cardinals and Blues have legions of loyal fans. However, there are several other splashes of our local culture, like the connection to Anheuser-Busch, the wonders of the Science Center, the gravity-defying of Ted Drewes Frozen Custard, and… pizza.
Yes, the Gateway City has its own take on this longtime Italian favorite. Popularized by the STL chain Imo’s, the St. Louis-style pizza involves a thin, cracker-like crust and is topped with Provel cheese. Toppings are spread across the entire pie, leaving no naked crust, and the pizzas are typically cut into squares. Just picturing one almost leaves the taste of in your mouth of that gooey cheese.
Of course, this recipe goes far beyond just Imo’s; the origins of this magical mix go back to the mid-1940s. Amedeo Fiore, who opened Melrose Cafe (later Melrose Pizzeria) in 1945, is widely credited with creating this style of pie. Fiore served three different versions of the original Neapolitan pizza he was familiar with: tomato and cheese, tomato and sausage, and tomato and anchovies. And while there have been other variations over the years, the basic recipe is still the same as it was 80 years ago.
St. Louis-style often gets compared and contrasted with the cuisine of other cities. Growing up on the eastern side of the Mississippi, I became very familiar with Chicago-style pizza, especially when I went to college. Much like the two cities they represent, these delicious dishes couldn’t be more opposite. In fact, they are as different as the Cards and the Cubs, or Budweiser and Old Style.
While ChiTown serves a slice as thick as a phonebook, the STL stays slim. And apparently, if you live near Lake Michigan, you don’t understand that sauce is supposed to go on FIRST.
Of course, there are other localities with their own ‘brand’. California and New York have their own vision of what pizza should be, but sometimes you have to meet in the middle. And what’s more in the middle than St. Louis?
Strangers, tourists, and outsiders may not understand. Their poor palates apparently can’t savor the flavor. However, many others have happened to grab a slice or two when they’re in town, and they ended up hooked for life. Some folks in other states even order frozen STL-style pizzas and have them shipped to their home.
And while no city can claim total pizza supremacy, most people in the greater metro area wouldn’t want a pie served any other way. The STL-style pizza is a staple food, a late-night snack, and a next-morning cold breakfast. It’s also a signature of the city, and another special slice of St. Louis culture… served one square at a time.
Ryan Boman is a contributing writer for On SI at Sports Illustrated and the author of the 2023 book, Pop Music & Peanut Butter, a Collection of Essays Looking at Life with Laughter & Love. His previous work has appeared at MSN, Heavy, the Miami Herald, Screen Rant, and Yardbarker. Follow him on social media @RyanKBoman